All posts in Local

Farm Fresh with Anne Coll of Meritage

Last night COOK had the pleasure of hosting Meritage chef Anne Coll for a truly delicious dinner celebrating local produce. For her “Farm Fresh” class, she brought along a bunch of just-harvested veggies to create a simple yet original meal that showcased the best quality area produce. Anne lives just outside Lancaster on a farm — she has a pet pig named Jenny! — and all of us were able to take advantage of her green thumb, as she even brought in some stuff she grew herself!

Anne’s amuse bouche was an immediate hit: She served deviled farm eggs, garnished with chives blossoms grown in her own garden and bacon-infused trout roe. The yolks of the eggs were also improved upon with bacon and bacon fat. Next was simply roasted Lancaster County asparagus, which had just been picked that morning, along with whipped ricotta. For her second and third courses, Chef Anne prepared Amish chicken, cooked confit in duck fat and served with pickled local rhubarb and her own lettuces; and seared Jersey scallops with a beautiful spring salad of asparagus, peas, radishes and mint. For dessert, another crowd favorite: almond cake with strawberries and lemon curd, a sweet treat many guests were surprised to learn was both gluten- and dairy-free.

Check after the jump for photos and recipes from this amazing evening!

Continue reading →

Warning! Smoking is addictive

 

This year I was given the mission and responsibility of providing Thanksgiving dinner with its main attraction – the turkey. It was a great honor indeed that my friends believed in my cooking skills enough to trust me with such a task. But then I realized that I’ve cooked many birds in my life of many shapes and sizes, but I have never handled anything like a turkey before, and I have no idea how to cook something of its proportion in my oven…? What to do, what to do? How do I make sure I don’t screw it up? What happens if it comes out dry or, God forbid, undercooked? Thanksgiving will be ruined!

So I started researching roasting methods online and asking chefs that came through COOK’s doors. The result was that I became really confused. Everyone I asked had something different to say on the subject, with a different method that he or she swears by – frying, brining, stuffing, not stuffing, baking with vs. baking without…You get my drift, right? Too many options and too little time.

Then I found the answer to my dilemma. My friend told me that I could order a smoked turkey from “Percy Street BBQ”  and if I haven’t tried it yet, it’s an absolute must! A smoked whole turkey is something I’ve never tasted before, and on top of that for every bird you buy, Percy Street will donate one to charity for you. Sounded like a great deal to me, and I was very intrigued by the process of smoking an entire bird.

 

So I called up Erin O’Shea, Chef at Percy Street, and she invited me to see them in action prepping a daunting 107 turkeys. This is Percy Street’s 3rd year in a row doing the “Turkey Drive,” and this year they truly outdid themselves compared to previous years when less than 50 birds were ordered. The donations this year were shared between two food banks in the city.

As you can see this is no easy task to do. All the turkey sat in a brine overnight before being rubbed with some TLC (salt and pepper, to be exact). Then into the smokers they go for a period of about 2 hours in 225° C. Yeah I was shocked as well that it doesn’t take all day to smoke a turkey, but that’s only if you have a giant convection wood smoker in your kitchen. Percy Street is blessed with two.

Even with the fancy equipment it’s a long and hard process to cook 107 turkeys. Each bird weighs in between 14 to 16 pounds, and  the smokers only accommodate around 9 turkeys at a time. And as you can see they’re being carried from the kitchen downstairs to the smokers upstairs, so imagine doing that 100 times over.

The smokers are powered by wood, which means someone has to constantly be there to monitor them and make sure they don’t go off mid-smoking. After they’re out of the smoker the turkeys get chilled and rewrapped. If you ordered a turkey, it came along with cranberry sauce and gravy on the side and instructions on how to warm it and get it ready to serve .The smoking process of all of the turkeys with all the steps I just described takes about 3 days, give or take. The staff of Percy Street worked hard all week to make sure we receive a perfectly executed product and indeed it was! In my opinion it was one of the best tasting gobblers I have ever had, and I highly recommend you don’t miss the opportunity to order one next year.

Thank you, Erin O’Shea for exposing me to the wonders of tasty smoked goods, and next year you can put me down for two turkeys.

 

Bed Breakfast & Beyond!

Every few weeks I get the feeling that I have to get out of the city and its urban goings-on. You know what I’m talking about right?

That feeling where you have to experience nature right now! I just have to have my dose of fresh air and green scenery at least once a month or I go a little “Center City crazy”.
Especially now when winter is just around the corner, it is important to take advantage of this fall weather when you still have some sun, to go out of town and enjoy it! So on that note, I called up my buddy Ryan Harrison who runs a little farm out in Cinnaminson, NJ right next to the Delaware river called “Jersey Gina’s Gems Farm”, and if that name rings a bell it’s because you probably got a chance to experience the amazing Gina’s Jersey Gems pickles which we sale at COOK. They are, by far, the best pickles I have ever had! Ryan, who is also a chef, has been a part of a number of classes here at COOK, including classes with The Smoke Truck, Ela,and he even competed in one of our “Open Stove” battles. Continue reading →

10 YEARS, 10 CHEFS, 1 LACROIX

 

I would like to start with congratulating Lacroix at the Rittenhouse for an amazing 10 years. To commemorate their tenth anniversary, Lacroix hosted an elaborate celebration dinner, benefiting the Lacroix scholarship through the James Beard Foundation and honoring Jean-Marie Lacroix for his contribution to Philadelphia’s (and the nation’s) culinary scene. Continue reading →

The 2012 Audi FEASTIVAL in pictures

The COOK crew is still catching its collective breath a full 48 hours after the curtain dropped on this year’s Audi FEASTIVAL. The crown jewel of the city’s culinary event calendar, FEASTIVAL, now in its third year, raised a tremendous amount of support for the city’s Live Arts and Philly Fringe, a mission represented by the multiple arts patrons in the crowd of 950-plus and the talented performers who transformed Delaware Avenue’s Pier 9 into an absolute funhouse. Audrey Claire Taichman, who curates the event with Stephen Starr and Michael Solomonov, recently revealed that 2010′s inaugural FEASTIVAL was the inspiration for COOK itself. It’s not difficult to see why, considering the support, respect and camaraderie displayed by this year’s attendees.

A total of 85 of Philly’s best bars and restaurants set up shop at this year’s event, sponsored by Philly Mag/Foobooz PECO and the DRWC, pulling out every conceivable stop on their mission to feed the food-fixated crowd. Their epicurean enthusiasm was matched by the high-flying artists — Brian Sanders’ JUNK Dancers, Illstyle Peace + Productions and one-of-a-kind digital projections conceived by Tisch School of the Arts students kept energy levels sky-high — as well as the luminaries who took the FEASTIVAL stage. Former Pennsylvania governor Ed Rendell, who served as the evening’s emcee, and Philly mayor Michael Nutter joined the FEASTIVAL curators in auctioning off several big-ticket culinary items to benefit Live Arts/Fringe, including two star-studded “ultimate dinner parties,” a barbecue hosted by Rendell and Solomonov and an Eagles Super Bowl package. All told, the evening collected an unbelievable $450,000 (!) to bolster the future of the arts in Philadelphia.

COOK photographer Yoni Nimrod did an incredible job capturing just a few of this year’s FEASTIVAL participants in action. Check out his handiwork after the jump.

Continue reading →

Lacroix at the Rittenhouse Celebrates a Decade with the Ultimate Collaboration Dinner

Lacroix at the Rittenhouse, COOK’s dear friend and very near neighbor, has always been a trend-setting force in Philadelphia dining, as well as a proving ground for some of our brightest chefs. That’s why we’re geeked to hear what one of our most evolutionary kitchens has planned for its 10-year anniversary.

On September 24 — big heads up for this one — Lacroix Executive Chef Jon Cichon (above, at his tuna butchering class) and Executive Pastry Chef Fred Ortega will fold eight former colleagues back into the fray for a one-night-only tasting. Here are the alums who will join the current brigade, plus chef Jean-Marie Lacroix himself, for this singular occasion (quite a few friends of COOK on this list, too):

Continue reading →

August 15: Le Bec Fin honors Julia Child

It wasn’t too long ago that The COOKbook took you on a photographic tour of Le Bec Fin, reinvigorated under the watch of new owner Nicolas Fanucci (left) and chef Walter Abrams (right), French Laundry alums who have injected The House That Perrier Built with new energy and purpose. Now that they’ve had a few months to settle in, earning a rave review from Philly Mag in the process, the team has started organizing special events. This Wednesday, August 15, the restaurant will participate in Julia Child Restaurant Week, a nationwide celebration honoring the great American-born ambassador of French cuisine, with a special menu served offered in LBF’s more casual Chez Georges.

Continue reading →

Opa opens Drury Beer Garden

opabeergarden6

When normal people redesign parking lots, they plant nondescript trees, designate “Employee of the Month” spots and tweak the angle of space lines by imperceptible degrees. When food-industry people redesign parking lots, they roll in repurposed power cable spool tables, fill beach bins full of iced-down craft cans and agonize over the placement of cornhole boards and ping-pong tables. So went the ramp-up to Drury Beer Garden, which Opa owners George and Vasiliki Tsiouris unveiled late last week in the formerly vacant space behind their mod-Greek bar and restaurant (1311 Sansom St.).

The brother-sister team, who recently visited COOK with chef Andrew Brown and their momma Chrisoula, have dramatically tweaked out the new outdoor hang, accessible via both the Drury Street alley and through Opa’s front door, as a colorful addition to a ‘hood that features no shortage of pretty open-air spaces. This one sits on the casual end of the spectrum, a pavement slab hand-painted to resemble cobblestone (fret not, high heel rockers) hosting a scattering of mixed-up chairs, umbrella-shaded tables and an antique bar. The booze? Mostly bottles and cans, ranging from three-buck PBR to snazzy imports like Saison Dupont and Hitachino at sub-$9 prices. The food? Brown’s in-demand gyros are the stars, joined by housebaked Euro-style pretzel rings, honey-chili chicken fingers and mini crab boils. The tunes? George has acquired a sweet throwback boom box (from where? “The Internet”) that docks iPods and iPhones. Slight upgrade from a parking lot on all fronts.

Drury Beer Garden is open Monday to Thursday from 5 to midnight and Friday and Saturday from 5 to last call, and George says they’re planning on launching Sunday hours in the near future. More photos of the space after the jump.

Continue reading →

Meet Meat the gentlemen of Side Project Jerky

sideproject1

Growing up in Utah, Marcos Espinoza just wanted to be normal. When he was in fifth grade, his New Mexican family opened Navajo Hogan, a Native American eatery in South Salt Lake, translating to long work hours for mom and dad — and full-blown “little restaurant rat” status for their son, who washed dishes and lent hands during catering gigs while the 9-to-5 parents of schoolmates enjoyed a more conventional day-to-day. “I wanted so bad to be normal, because all my friends were quote-unquote normal,” he says. “But now, that’s the last thing I want to be.”

Business-wise, at least. Espinoza, a married father of two, is now a 9-to-5er himself — he works as a cost estimator for a local construction company. “I really like my job,” he says. “But I also wanted to do something other than that, something involved with food.” He turned this desire into an impeccably branded reality earlier this year with Side Project Jerky (SPJ), a handmade snack that appeals to the polished, meat-masticating gentleman inside us all.

Continue reading →

?uest Loves Food visits the Night Market

IMG_5945

Last week’s Night Market, the sixth installment in The Food Trust‘s crazy-popular nomadic street food series, packed several spacious blocks of Washington Avenue in the Italian Market zone with revelers, falling in queue to get their hands on a head-spinning selection of eats — barbecue, takoyaki, tacos, Caribbean, nu-Korean, porchetta, frozen bananas, freshie biscuits, phew. For the first time, however, the event’s VIP section handled by an ever-elusive chicken-fried entity familiar to Philly food-event frequenters: ?uest Loves Food, the edible imprint of The RootsAhmir “?uestlove” Thompson.

Continue reading →