All posts tagged beer

OMMEGANG WITH A BANG!

Let me tell you about a magical place, way up in the mountains of upstate New York where the trees are evergreen, cows are forever happy, Belgian beer flows like water and baseball memorabilia is in every possible direction you look!  My friends, I’m talking about Cooperstown NY.

Friend of COOK, Hahri, and I got invited to Cooperstown to participate in the annual Ommegang Brewery Festival.  OBF is a two-day extravaganza where some of the best breweries in America showcase their beers and make sure you are pretty much hammered for 48 hours straight.  A huge draw of the weekend’s festivities was the “Hop Chef” final competition where local boy and Philly Mag “Best Chef” George Sabatino was competing for the title against three other chefs from that won “Hop Chef” competitions in Maryland, D.C. and NY.

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Catering to a New Thirst in Narberth

thegreeks

It’s no secret that tastes have been changing in the homey, front-porch Main Line borough of Narberth. It’s hardly Fishtown. But a steady trickle of urbanites – typically as their children reach school age – have decamped from Philadelphia, giving the town of some 5,000 a younger, if not ostensibly hipper, feel. Voting rolls have tipped from reliably Republican to  decidedly Democratic. And in recent years, a genuine French patisserie has opened near the SEPTA station (and even more recently a second one – owned by Georges Perrier – on Montgomery Avenue). There’s an Osaka-style lunch counter offering okonomiyaki, a Japanese “pizza.” A very tasty Thai cafe. Wholesale croissant bakeries. And not least, three pubs – two of them facing off across Haverford Avenue, a small-town version of the dueling delis (Hymie’s vs. Murray’s) a mile away on the Bala-Merion border. Continue reading →

Beer and food become best friends at Ommegang’s inaugural Philly Hop Chef

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I’ve volunteered to judge dozens of cooking competitions since I began writing about food professionally years ago. Burgers, organic pastries, vegan barbecue, Buffalo wings, shucked oysters, gingerbread-flavored cocktails, cupcakes, chili in volumes that’d fill a regulation Olympic-size pool — I’ve sucked it all down, scribbling notes and numeric scores on sauce-stained paper while grinning like a Hunger Games champ with two hollow legs.  My willingness to participate in these cookoffs has led to some friends accusing me of being a whore for dream-smushing edible valuation, but really I just like to eat a whole lot.

With my enthusiasm, of course, has come a predictable drawback: awful food. A decent amount of the stuff I’ve tasted for competitions has been solid to excellent. A majority of it is just alright, just OK. But then there are the brain-searingly memorable duds. Chewy scallops, raw-but-not-in-a-good-way lamb, rancid parm-topped pasta, mixed drinks so unnecessarily strong they caused parts of my face to melt like the Nazis in the end of Raiders of the Lost Ark. Gotta take the bad with the good, yeah?

Not so with Philly’s inaugural Hop Chef.

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Starr veteran opening Growler’s in Bella Vista

Jay Willard, a veteran of the Stephen Starr collective who most recently worked as GM of The Dandelion, is targeting September 1 for a new project: Growler’s, a neighborhood bar he’s opening in the former Vesuvio/Little Bar at Eighth and Fitzwater with Jason Evenchik, owner of Vintage, Time, Bar and the forthcoming Garage.

“It’s always been the plan,” says Willard, who remembers watching the Phillies win the 2008 World Series at Vesuvio, of branching out on his own. “I remember saying to myself, ‘It doesn’t get any better than Starr. The only way I would leave is if I open my own place.’”

That’s precisely what he’s doing. Adding a complementary element to the east-of-Broad area that already boasts gastropubbish stalwarts like Wishing Well, Royal Tavern, Hawthornes and Tapestry, Growler’s, if you’ve surmised by the name, will be for beer drinkers — Willard, who made his bones at Starr as a beverage manager, plans on expanding the six-tap draft system in addition to piecing together a “handsome” bottle and can selection. (There will also be a simple craft cocktail list.) In lieu of pitchers, the bar will pour its titular 64-ouncers for table service, plus to go.

The physical changes Willard and Evenchik have planned for the space are mostly cosmetic (the TVs and two working fireplaces will remain), leaving them to focus on the drink and the food, a neighborhood-friendly spread being developed by a chef who can’t yet be named. There will be no live music, a 180 from previous tenant Little Bar’s approach.

“Everyone has their own ideas of how they’d do it if it was theirs,” says Lehigh Valley native Willard of his impending transition to self-employment. “I’m of the mindset that I’ll take the structure and organization that was instilled in me [by Starr] and try to duplicate their best practices.”

Philly Beer Geek 2011

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Push up your spectacles and put down your glasses. It is time to shine, geeks. Philly Beer Geek 2011 is upon us.

Beer geeks should not be confused with snobs. Beer is joyous, welcoming, inexpensive, and, for the most part, accessible. Beer is simple and plentiful like the cheesesteak or the pretzel
- and equally Philadelphian at this point. Even in Philly (where retail beer costs are stupid expensive, relative to almost any other state) we almost never pay more than $10 a glass or $25 dollars a bottle for even the most hyper-limited of beers and the majority of craft beer costs somewhere between $2.50 – $5 per bottle.

I think it was Benjamin Franklin himself who said that beer is proof that God didn’t want us to go broke drowning our sorrows. Your wine-loving friends may be ashamed (or perhaps
eager) to tell you that their collection contains many multi-Benjamin bottles. But you can really drink your way to an encyclopedic level of expertise with that kind of dough in the beer world and many Philadelphians have done so.

And this is not meant to belittle wine aficionados at large, but, frankly speaking, your “average wine aficionado” is significantly wealthier than your average Philadelphian. Our Joe, by the way, makes about $16k per year and has worked only 16 of the last 24 months. Calling Philly an essentially “middle” or “working” class city is precisely the kind of overstatement that one might hear over a ninety-dollar glass of Alsacean Pinot.

OK, rant over. Philly Beer Geek 2011 celebrates the cash-strapped, likely-bearded sud-savants of our city. Compete yourself or come for the show. Qualifying rounds continue through May. Next up – Monday the 16th at the P.O.P.E.

Full schedule here.

Mere Beer

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Oh, maligned beer. Thin, yellowish swill indiscernible from other swills- or at least rendered so over the last thirty years at the hands of the “Big Three”. You know, the guys with the Super Bowl commercials. Those pricey spots are are, of course, what distinguish the mainstream varieties of beer. I suppose little money remains for the development of styles.

But of those that my television tells me I ought to be drinking, I believe one type makes you say ‘Waazzzuup!”, one is to this day distributed across the Rockies on something called the “love train”, and the other is delivered most expediently to your face via the rifled, “vortex” bottle. At last my beer may enter my body in the same manner it exits!

But what of the beer itself? Are we, the lowly consumers, simply incapable of articulating a preference beyond light or lime? Are we what we drink?

I humbly offer a pompous solution to something you may not even realize is a problem: You are too good to drink swill, and your continued complacency puts you at risk of even further corruption of your soul. Even you, high-fiving, wing-scarfing bro – and you, perpetually-poor, ironically apathetic grungster, deserve better than that which most cheaply blurs your vision. Paint thinner has always been an option, but a dynamic and diverse craft beer culture is swelling around us and a staggering selection of legitimately excellent beers are available to you, oh blessed Philadelphian.

It starts with a simple move. When talking about beer, it should no longer suffice to say that you flatly like or dislike a certain kind. I implore you to go one step further- to discuss why you like or dislike it. It’s a question of vocabulary. We have been systematically impoverished, made inarticulate by decades of advertising that have caused us to relate beer most principally to things that have nothing to do with flavor or uniqueness and have everything to do with body image and social status- two things that I, for one, drink beer specifically to forget about.

Talk about taste. Equip yourself with the vocabulary required to articulate your individual taste preferences and take a little pride in them. Develop a base of knowledge that enables you to confidently approach beer, instead of dismissing the totality of it as what, to me, is a most unfortunate of rhymes: mere beer.